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Those who have made the journey around Ethiopia independently, without the cultural ‘bubble’ of air-conditioned tourist vehicles, will know that Ethiopia is not an easy country to travel. The frequent scams, the constant demands for money, and the occasional unpleasantness in the attitudes of some local people towards foreigners or travellers — can really wear you down.

The first month of journeying around the country by motorcycle left my wife and me disappointed and jaded, with very little faith left in being able to connect with the local people. I say this not to complain or to generalise, but to frame just how special the places in this story are.

These places are far from the well-trodden path, deep in the mountains of Ethiopia’s Tigray province. Some haven’t ever seen foreign visitors. Others see them once every few months, or even every few years.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"pwnz5xp351hk8i1zl5py"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

My journey first took me to Abi Adi — an area in the east of Tigray. It can be reached via 100 km of gravel road.

Like most Tigrayans, the people of Abi Adi area are devout coptic Christians. Part of my reason for traveling into the ‘heart of Ethiopia’ was to see some of the most isolated and little-visited rock churches of the area. In the more frequented parts of the country such churches have become obsessed with the tourist dollar. In Abi Adi, there is still a sense of purity and innocence to these places.

Abba Yohani is a church and monastery carved right into the side of a mountain face. I rode to the church on the motorbike with my friend and guide — Zemenfes.

We moved through the darkness of a very early morning, traversing winding roads made of rubble and sand.

We arrived in time for the morning mass. Morning masses can be magical in these rock churches. There is usually very little artificial light, and the devotees light tapering candles and murmur passages from the bible.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"n5dyzje6mb6cksux3ca4"},{"id":"h3rpms5peln2srhrbg8c"},{"id":"z5q0b0ledgtwe9tozsyu"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Mass usually lasts for a few hours, and in addition to passages from the bible, the devotees also read from prayer books. By the time all is finished, it is bright outside and the light enters the church through thin windows, creating a dramatic, almost divine atmosphere.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"fhjixukwer8az3jhnmh4"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The texts for mass are not written on paper, but rather on goat skin because it can last forever. So says Mosei, who you see pictured below. Mosei is a rare kind of priest who creates prayer books for a living.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"sxjzwekwqpbzjgkgjxmx"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Our guide Zemenfes was convinced that Mosei was also a man who should never be messed with. He said that people like Mosei can perform magic and cast spells or curses on their enemies.

Thankfully I didn’t get to find out if this was true, but I did witness how skilled Mosei was at writing the prayer texts in the ancient Ge’ez language on the goat skin pages. His writing is virtually impeccable. The rare mistakes are fixed by erasing the wrong characters with a razor blade.

One book can take from four months to a year to complete. On a more gruesome note, about 70 goats are needed to provide the pages. Mosei will make 3,000 Bir (about $USD 170) profit on each such book.

Mosei’s children are already learning from their father, and in the image you see his youngest son watching closely.

Around each church or monastery there is supposed to be a green area — a mini-forest of sorts. While this isn’t always really the case in the drier regions of the country, there was a beautiful little patch of trees and bush that surrounded Abba Yohani and a neighbouring church.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"n818nvcchbvlfz11mk5a"},{"id":"uhx7jw2c8nfiljiohllu"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Near the green area around this church was a water pump, and one morning we met a group of young girls filling their containers from the pump. One of these girls was Zafu, who you see pictured below.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"qngqwsrvnosxd6lzexsg"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Zafu is only ten years old, but in many ways works like a grown woman, doing many of the chores for her family. After getting water, Zafu loaded the containers onto the back of her donkey and headed home.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"bwv5tdko2wrmu8dxy9no"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Donkeys are used for all kinds of tasks around the Ethiopian countryside. Their main use is to carry water, wood or anything else that is needed around the house.

The most common sight around sunset in these regions is one of a young child and a donkey going to fetch water for the family.

Below is a photograph of one of the church priests in front of Abba Yohani rock church. You can see the church in the distance, blending into the rock face behind the priest’s left-hand shoulder.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"agbfwalbvdjjy8lhc0hr"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

My visit to Abi Adi wasn’t just about spending time in the churches and monasteries. I also had the great privilege to glimpse into the everyday lives of the people who inhabit the region. I was surprised by how hospitable even the young inhabitants of Abi Adi were.

In the more famous, often visited places, most of the children we interacted with would try to scam us for money or simply demand it with an outstretched arm. In one small village a group of kids even threatened to throw stones at us, if we decided not to go with them and pay for seeing the church in their area.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"khyktfflzdlh8cb3lw9v"},{"id":"cyhsoba1w2ieyy8orkla"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Wurko, pictured above, was a shepherd boy who we met along a dusty road. Not only did he not demand anything, he also invited us into his home, fed us berries, and took us to see his family’s tree house.

The tree house was the place where guests slept and it was here that Wurko spent most of his time when the crops needed to be guarded from birds and other “pests”. In the image on the right above, Wurko is pointing out an escaped cow to a crowd of kids below.

This hospitality was everywhere in Abi Adi. When we asked one woman whose house was along a dusty road if we could see it from the inside, she replied, “What else is a house for if not for inviting guests?”

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"z28wbehpxlxn87gzmqcw"},{"id":"zagcyofokeiim1eub6fz"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

In an area so full of welcoming, hospitable people I wanted to keep exploring. Zemenfes and I decided to simply ride down one of the roads, and to see where it might take us, trying to visit some of the houses and chatting with people along the way.

We ended up at a house of a 90-year-old leather worker. This man used to be relatively rich in his youth. Now his abilities and the demand for leather is no longer the same, but he still worked at his craft. In the photos above he is making a leather baby harness, for which there is still some demand in the areas that are deep in the countryside.

We chatted to the man for a while and soon his daughter appeared. It was clear that the family didn’t have much, but because hospitality is a big thing in these parts of Ethiopia the family insisted that we were treated to some roasted dry beans, a common snack in this region.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"sseh5pofuzomvazfgcwv"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

For days, Zemenfes and I kept exploring the Abi Adi region. I didn’t have any specific goal in mind. I just wanted to absorb as much of it as I could. It was wonderful to be away from all the hassles and difficulties that Ethiopia had greeted me with.

The trip to Abi Adi was “just what the doctor had ordered” for a jaded traveler. I regained my faith in connecting with the local people and I wanted to share my new, positive experiences with my wife, who missed out on most of our adventures because we only had one motorbike between the three of us.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"usbl5eubnv54douwuxae"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

We managed to get another bike and continued our journey to an even less visited area — the mountain villages of Enderta province. Despite being only about 30 km away from Mekele, Ethiopia’s pleasant northern capital, the villages are a world away from modern life.

You can’t get to many of them by motorised transport. Here, we relied on the trusty donkeys to carry our camping gear and some food necessities. This way we were able to spend time in some of the most remote villages, some of which had even had foreign visitors before us.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"ke6odvmn3gtofau2b0ry"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Once again, in these villages we were greeted by the most hospitable of people. Our first stop ended with a local dinner and Zemenfes was offered a bed inside the house, while we set up our tent outside.

A funny moment came later when the family’s father instructed his son to sleep by Zemenfes’ side to care for him, should any issue arise.

Being more of a city kid Zemenfes found this rather uncomfortable and odd, as most city people and foreign travellers would. Nevertheless, hospitality is hospitality, and he accepted the kind and genuine gesture.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"k6vtv90ckycsa2i3ypqi"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

An imperative part of Ethiopian hospitality is the coffee ceremony. It is believed by some that Ethiopia is home this world famous drink.

During the ceremony, coffee beans are crushed with a sort of a mortar and pestle. The drink is brewed and served to the guests three times. The first brew is the strongest and the last is the weakest.

Any time you visit a welcoming and hospitable Ethiopian household, you won’t be allowed to leave without a coffee. In one village, once word about our presence had spread, we were kindly invited to numerous coffee ceremonies in various houses of the village.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"zm4qkwdmm0r4jjwec8hu"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

It was rare for the villagers to have any photographs of themselves, and so they were eager to invite us into their homes and often asked if I could take their picture.

I always made sure to pass the printed images onto Zemenfes after I left, so that he might give them to the families when he was passing through.

This man was the head of one of the villages and also a priest, which isn’t uncommon in Northern Ethiopia, as priests are the most revered members of their society.

Quite soon we started to run out of our food supplies, but, this wasn’t a problem as the generous local people invited us to join them for lunches and dinners too. We were even given a taste of the delicious local honey.

In the photo below you see a woman making injera — a type of sourdough-risen flatbread with a unique, slightly spongy texture. It is the main staple food for virtually any Ethiopian.

Traditionally made out of teff flour, injera is a national dish in Ethiopia and Eritrea. While most foreigners balk at the idea of eating so much of it if they spend extended periods of time in the country, most Ethiopians say that they could not live without injera.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"fqlkkkzjnve5pbp7rhnf"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Below you see an image of a mother and a young child in the kind of leather harness that the elderly leather maker in Abi Adi was making. Zemenfes made sure to draw my attention to it. He said, “You see, you have to get pretty far from any town to see these things still in use.”

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"fi4z1hadm5vgmtmlistq"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

A lot of our time was spent just wandering around the villages and interacting with whoever crossed our path. I photographed everyday life — people going about their normal lives, happy that someone from a far away land was interested enough to make the journey to visit them.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"tr8rg1lvmnvgys2reblm"},{"id":"k3lkgtoepqmipgjv47rm"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The children here often carry their younger sibling on their backs, and that was the case with the girl in the photo below. We asked if she would mind having her photo taken. Though she was shy, she stood in front of the camera. Ethiopia is definitely a land of a very beautiful people.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"tcploaauri3sm7niemkh"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

During our time in one of these small villages, a family whose house we were staying in was having a christening for their baby boy the next morning. The preparations were already in full swing, and below you can see the village beautician doing the mother’s hair for the big day.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"kmjil7gysdstmq6hain0"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

We were invited to attend the christening and were even given the honour of being asked to give the baby a name. The name had to be Christian and had to come from the bible. My wife and I thought carefully about it, and in the end decided on suggesting Samson.

Our knowledge of the bible isn’t that great, but we both knew the story of the strong man with the long hair. We said that we wished for their baby boy to be as strong as Samson when he grew up. So... Samson it was.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"qwc9akyqv1ge4ejzdcaw"},{"id":"qwtraywsmukaw2ndzbys"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Preparations for the ceremony continued throughout the night. Family and friends needed to cook a lot of injera and curry-type foods to be able to provide a meal for all of the guests, as is the custom here.

With action around the clock I tried to continue photographing through the night, wanting to make the most of the privilege I had been given to share in this important moment for the family. I occasionally dozed off, but was able to photograph the mother comforting one of her children when the little girl woke up from what seemed to be a nightmare.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"dwjswu3pheqyoguqdrrw"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Here you see members of the family preparing injera and coffee on the morning of the christening.

Some of the women had stayed up the whole night, but christenings are a big deal in their culture, and so it is expected that many of the extended family will help out on such an occasion.

When the time of the christening came, I wondered whether the family was really going to go with the name we chose for their boy. After hearing Samson several times, it became clear that they liked the name. What an odd story the child would hear from his parents if he ever asked them how he got his name.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"ceqvggztmnq5rrzbi3zd"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The church where the christening took place was tiny, but by now, considering that I gave the boy his name, I was a guest of honour and had the privilege of getting the best possible view of the whole thing.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"vj2vgsmj03j4srt9bnjl"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Christening involves some prayer reading. A priest dips the child into water, which after prayers is considered to have the holy spirit inside it. Plenty of tears follow, but the child is now a Christian.

Christenings are a big deal because before a child is taken through the ceremony he or she and the mother are considered impure.

The ceremony takes place for boys when they are 40 days old, and for girls when they are 80 days old.

Over my time in Ethiopia I saw my fair share of christenings and crying babies, but this one was special because of our little name connection.

I made sure to get the images to the family a few weeks after we left, via Zemenfes.

"}},{"type":"divider"},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Our time in the remotest parts of Tigray changed our outlook on Ethiopia. It wasn’t easy to get to these places and we would have never found them without Zemenfes, but we felt lucky that we did. We saw that there was so much more to Ethiopia than the unpleasant welcome we had initially received.

I suppose I was reassured that if you really, really want to find something you will. I truly feel that the heart of Ethiopia is what we found.

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“There is a high threat from terrorism, including kidnapping. Attacks could be indiscriminate, including in places frequented by foreigners. If you do decide to travel to Mauritania, you should exercise extreme caution. If you are in Mauritania, you should avoid unnecessary local travel.”

"}},{"type":"divider"},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The above warnings from the UK and the Australian foreign advisory websites made me think, “Where the hell am I going? Can I maybe just put my car on some kind of ferry to Senegal or breeze through the country in a day?” But these warnings and the media can generalize an entire country and make it seem so incredibly dangerous, even if it is not.

I did my own research and concluded that I should just go, see for myself and trust my instincts to get the hell out if there was anything odd.

My trip to Mauritania was a surprise, or rather it was as awesome as I imagined it might be and that was the surprise. Was it safe? It was for me. Does that mean I can recommend the whole world to visit? No.

I accidentally bumped into a group from the French military, based in Mauritania to monitor what’s happening. They said that all of the Adrar region, where I spent most of my time, is a “Red zone” meaning “No go zone”. They said that anything could happen at any time. That the bad guys were somewhere in the country and that I shouldn’t stay anywhere for more than a day, otherwise I would give them a chance to find out that we were around and get to us.

I ended up staying five days in the town of Oudane, as I loved it there and we enjoyed visiting the surrounding villages. I never felt unsafe in the slightest way, which is not to say that nothing can happen. It can, and some people will be turned off by the travel advisory warnings and the very thought of something happening. That’s ok. They will miss out on an amazing country, but, life will go on.

I guess when it comes to these matters my opinion is simple. Anything can happen to anyone anywhere. Getting hit by a car is a very possible hazard in most of the safe developed world. My friends have been robbed and injured in Australia. Getting struck down by a deadly disease is possible too. It’s really the luck of the draw. I wouldn’t go into a war zone, but, I won’t obsess too much about being in an area where the terrorists are lurking 500–1,000 km away, by desert roads, I might add.

Now, onto the photos...

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"kv8r7otvmd3zgjx2nbyf"},{"id":"q1riwu53zigydhgia6tj"},{"id":"ig631oouwqixfaux27xt"},{"id":"sjio7jggty68ll9unzwa"},{"id":"tu1zywsfllfgx0ktak1o"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

NOUAKCHOTT

I started off photographing in the capital, Nouakchott, a tragedy of a city with congested roads, ugly architecture and busy markets, which is quite fascinating nevertheless. In Nouakchott there is a lively fishing harbour where boats arrive every evening and a buzz ensues. Fishermen scoop water out of their pirogues (boats) and battle the waves, as they push the boats back out to sea.

When the sea is rough, it’s hard to straighten out the boat and make it head out again. Crew from the boat load heavy boxes full of fish on their heads. The stinking water with fish blood drips all over their faces and bodies. Little boys scramble for the fish that falls out. Market ladies chase down the fishermen to buy the catch while it’s fresh.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"kpbngbb0ypgqz6rneaew"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Families of the fishermen and fishmongers quickly set up shop on the shore and sell the catch. Some of the smaller and less desirable fish are collected at a base, the weight is measured and the person who brought it gets paid accordingly. The woman above was unhappy with what she got. I was told that the fish from the large collection base is later used as animal food.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"isf2tv9bv8hq3bzyn6dj"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

ATAR

After a few days in the capital we decided that it was worthwhile to try to have some adventure. We headed for Adrar, the region which the chaps from the French military referred to as the Red Zone. As I said, I never felt any threat, but, the road was eery with a few sand storms along the way and car skeletons like this one were a recurring scene.

In Atar, the capital of Adrar we found a local guide. A pleasant young man by the name of Alioune. He had asked me if I needed a guide when I parked near the main roundabout. Usually I never ever take guides up on offers like that in those circumstances, because more often than not they are hustlers, scam artists. But, I trusted my instinct. He seemed like he was honest and decent, and, I was right. He became my key to spending time with the villagers and a bridge between me and them.

On our first day together we were invited into a house full of women from semi-nomadic families. They were very jolly. One of them asked if Tanya and I were married. We said “Yes.” They thought it was a great reason to paint her hands with henna and to have a small party. I guess they just needed an excuse for some entertainment.

Plastic buckets became improvisational drums and soon the women were up and moving around in ways which you’d not associate with conservative societies.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"vxuoq2jq7ieofljx4wi2"},{"id":"spmp4gymwtfn35sp50io"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

I was worried that this moment would come and it did. After the women danced for a while, they said, “Ok, now, you dance!” They wanted Tanya to get up, but she was too shy. The crowd wanted to be entertained, so they pointed at me. Alioune gave me his bu-bu, the traditional garb in Mauritania, and soon I was pleasing the crowd by making a fool of myself. Seems that they enjoyed it and soon Tanya joined in too.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"yb31jgkuc9hiq1db4o7m"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

We wandered around some villages and photographed some people who were in their homes or around during our visits. This gentleman also belongs to a semi-nomadic family. He was covering himself from the sun and the sand with his bu-bu.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"vqivkgctcf42h2rnnnq5"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

CHINGUETTI

While I was in a guesthouse in Atar I saw some coffee table books with some wonderful images from Mauritania. One thing that caught my eye was an image of children in a Quranic school. I heard there were some of these schools in Chinguetti, so, I asked Alioune to take me to one. Chinguetti used to be a touristy place, so the children still remember having loads of tourists in their town, hence they were cheeky with me.

The girl in yellow kept covering her face with the wooden tablet and then she’d uncover it and make faces. I played with her too and waited till when she’d stop making faces and had her face uncovered. There was lots of giggling throughout and I got a wave and a thumbs up before I left.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"d9ovamkgwzditruyu8pa"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

When the children learn an extract from the Quran or when they finish for the day, they leave their wooden tablets in one common room. This youngster paused after putting down his tablet, I asked him to freeze for a second and took this image.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"o83exjkoeodhjohnkzhs"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

OUDANE

From Chinguetti we went to Oudane, a little town which I fell in love with. For the first time in this entire journey I remembered one important aspect of why I love traveling. It is because I like sharing things about me and my world with curious locals. I hadn’t met any in Morocco and hadn’t yet met any in Mauritania. Finally, here, in a remote location we were greeted by dozens of curious boys, asking about my favorite football team, what I thought of Mauritania and so on.

One of the boys, 16 year old Mohammed, particularly stood out. If you ask me, he was borderline genius. The kid knew about Einstein, Stalin and Hilter. Drew maps of different continents in order to better memorize where different countries were and was generally very forward thinking. He said he planted some new trees in his family’s palmerie. I said that he probably wouldn’t see them grow to full size during his lifetime, to which he replied “It’s ok, I am thinking about the future generations, not just me.” If you’re traveled around Africa, you know this is far from the most common reply.

After hearing “No” to almost every request for photos in the town streets over virtually my entire journey, it was a very welcome break to hear “Why not?” in Oudane, as I asked the men above, who were playing a traditional Mauritanian game similar to checkers.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"iigkadubpllvfsn9wamv"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Over our time in Oudane we met Mohammed Mbarak, a man who started a local bakery some years ago. He built the oven from what he remembered an oven looked like during his visit to Nouakchott and soon most of the town was buying bread from him.

Now Mohammed no longer bakes, his business is successful enough to allow him to focus on doing things around the house and working in his garden, some kilometers outside of Oudane. After we had this tea with Mohammed, we gave him a lift to his garden.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"nt9bob4euylhpmbxigtc"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Donkeys are still used for transport in many situations in Mauritania. One of the most common tasks is transporting water, which usually happens in the mornings. Water was delivered to this village by a large truck, as there was no well nearby. The whole village comes with their donkeys and takes their share.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"bopwbvduopuelppxmh8l"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

This little girl is the sister of the boy with the donkeys, she assisted him with the taking off of the jerry-cans filled with water. She was suspicious, yet curious to know who I was, so, when I came up to her with the camera, she didn’t run off, as some children do. Instead she stared right at me. The wind moved her hair and I had an image.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"eimhj4israiivwx23fyh"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The cool thing about the area around Oudane is that the villages are for most part unspoilt by mass tourism. There aren’t the regular requests for a cado (present) from annoying little brats, as there are in so many parts of Morocco and the bigger tourist attraction of Chinguetti. Here people live independently of tourism. They don’t know what to expect from outsiders, so as a result, they just act normal, as they are.

They also don’t have the strangely negative approach to photography that I’ve seen so much during this journey so far, so, when I asked if I could photograph the woman doing her everyday chores she said “Sure.” Here her daughter is assisting her by capturing a baby goat, which is to be taken out of the pen and placed next to its mother for feeding.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"jcwtulc1q5wvzyeqivai"},{"id":"gzghctsemp5oqkajq3vc"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Walking around the villages you see some amazing characters. Hanaan, in the left-hand image above, was one of them. I spotted him and his family under the shelter of a hut and as we came closer, we were invited for tea. Hanaan has one of these incredible faces, which is very stoic and serious. He is almost intimidating, until he smiles, when he looks disarmingly charming and almost goofy. I later learned that his name meant ‘Merciful’. Hannan is a real nomad, he came to the village for the summer, as do most other nomads during this time. The village is in an oasis, there’s plenty of water and, it’s date season, which is a big thing in Mauritania.

I said to Hanaan that I might come back to visit his nomadic settlement some time. He asked me to bring a binoculars, he would buy it off me. I later learned that to have a binoculars is almost every nomads dream. They use it to watch their camels from afar.

On the right above you see another great character. The man’s name is Selim. He was chatting to the shop owner and making a transaction when we came in and asked him for a photo. I took a few shots. At the end he said, “Ok, you have to pay me now.” With this being a common request so often before I reached Mauritania, I paused and thought, “Here we go again, where did he learn this?” But just as I finished my thought, he smiled and my guide said, “He is joking!” To Selim the idea of getting paid for a photograph was absurd, so, he thought it would make a funny joke, and we all shared a laugh together.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"diqylyc9n5eixgj0fmpv"},{"id":"x6ognommi9dwu0555jnl"},{"id":"qz1udwoxqcu2ikjcd9d5"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

During my time in Mauritania I developed an interest in photographing at the Quranic schools called Mahadaras. Not Madrassas, which is the name for regular schools in Mauritania. The students are given texts from the Quran to memorize. They chant it until they do. The teacher listens in and corrects those who mispronounce the words. Apparently some children memorize the entire Quran by their teens.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"o2eqmbzvwlzfzroicd6o"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The Mahadaras are for boys and girls. In some cases the boys and girls are sitting in close proximity, in others, they are more isolated. In any case, this was a welcome change after very rigid gender restrictions I experienced in Morocco.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"ajshbudopqtfs7amx2bs"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Some of the Quran reciting sessions can get pretty intense. Here, Mohammed, the curious genius boy who had decided to accompany us to his town’s Mahadaras, was encouraging the children to recite louder and more clearly.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"mcisdhm02olto7rp2vhq"},{"id":"dt4du0sjbyestglsrkki"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

At one stage, when the children learn the text written on the tablet, the ink is washed off and the teacher writes a new text for them to memorize. As the morning learning session was over and the teacher headed out, I asked him to pause for a portrait.

These guys (the teachers) usually look very serious and even somewhat intimidating. I guess that’s the intention, as far as the students go. They have to be taken very seriously. Outside of the classroom they are much more cheerful and even smile a bit.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"pyz2vbx303enrcmwvyem"},{"id":"lunqlkd89dkqewf7b79y"},{"id":"vbl8gfjv1j1adrr1wiks"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

While in Oudane, we came across a wedding party in the old town. However, before long the music finished and suddenly everyone went off to their homes. But the party continued at night with a large gathering at someone’s house. More dances, more singing, more joy. I was lucky enough to be invited because we were staying at a guesthouse where the owner, Zaida, was friends with the soon-to-be-married-couple.

I think that due to what we see on TV a lot of us in the West associate Islam with repression, no alcohol, no music, no fun. Sure there is no alcohol, but, the dancing, the singing and the celebrations were up there with some of the liveliest I’d seen.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"mqyzwyda4hfwqyoqvwui"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

TANOUCHERT

We left Oudane after the wedding night and headed for the oasis settlement of Tanouchert. Back when there was tourism we were told that fifty tourists would pass through the village daily. I can only imagine what it was like then and how many stilos (pens) and cados (presents) were handed out. Ironically the lack of tourism (which is what the villages want) is the very thing that makes them so attractive now. People are normal, children don’t bother and nag you for things, it’s great. In an ideal world, the villages could manage this with tourists around, but until then I’ll enjoy what is there.

The image above is the scene that we saw shortly after arriving. A man and a woman wait to use the public phone. There isn’t mobile phone signal here, so the only way to communicate to outside villages is by going there in person or by using the public phone. It’s great to experience truly isolated places sometimes.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"ykizzu45oneowxhuimif"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The next morning we woke up to the surprise of seeing dozens of camels gathered around a well. Many nomads come past the oasis to provide water for their animals.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"rc2u3wpwwrzoothvlhgo"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

One of the conveniences of modernity is that nowadays the nomads sometimes carry diesel powered water-pumps on one of the camels, and, rather than pull the water out manually, they pump it out and fill in the small drinking pool.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"zv1nasgul7yo1yb8lwa0"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Whenever you wander around a little village like Tanouchert, you’re likely to encounter numerous invitations for tea. I enjoyed many of these friendly meetings, drank my tea, and made photos.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"z8t39yyfkqdavrplaar9"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

During one of the tea sessions, Mimouna, a girl from a semi-nomadic family entered the hut of her neighbours. I was waiting for tea, she was waiting for her friend, so, while we both waited, I took her photo.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"lf3tjtpf7g4nx9zmifal"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

This is what a street in the village of Tanouchert looks like. During the early part of the day everyone passes through the streets, so that was the time I was around, shooting.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"idt9j6hnxssbj2b3z6or"},{"id":"bfbprjd8nnfljln29tdp"},{"id":"v7mmdfw7s4atkrlhcpqq"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The morning after our arrival we met a very friendly and very jolly man named Bugia, who you can see in the image on the right above. He was visiting Tanouchert and everyone seemed to have great respect and affection for him. He didn’t have much to do, so, he joined us and walked around with us for a little while, chatting to other villagers and helping them out where he could.

Mauritanians love their dates and summertime is the date season. Instead of heading to the coastline, where the temperature is significantly cooler, most of the population heads to the desert, to their oasis palmeries, where temperatures can rise up to 50°C/122°F!

Bugia is actually a nomad, but, like most of the country, during the summer months he settles down in or near an oasis. He leaves his camels with another nomad, a caretaker, and moves to a little settlement not far from the oasis. He has a palmerie in Tanouchert and as he gets older plans to build a house there as well.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"vkixclwdvzdwzipgewsq"},{"id":"dluey6cds6jsoklu13fq"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Hassan, in white above, is another friend we made in Tanouchert. Hassan is a true nomad who is also staying put for the summer. He used to travel with his caravan from Mauritania to Algeria and to Mali, all through the desert, without crossing the official borders. Hassan invited us for tea and we spent some time with him and his family.

Hassan’s children and their neighbour were heading out to herd the sheep for an hour during the evening. The sand dunes are great fun for kids. They roll around and run on the sand, while adults like me just don’t have the energy.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"k1ehvgknf1kc6mnuauzg"},{"id":"tmuwrr61h9dc7odwzsvk"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Our host, the village chief (with the bloody hands), offered to make his signature dish called mishui for us. We just had to pay for the goat and this, being a village, meant that they’d have to kill it. I love animals, so, it’s hard for me to shoot stuff like this, and excuse the graphic nature, but, this is how meat is made if we’re lucky enough to eat the type that hasn’t been genetically modified.

The goat was big enough for two meals. We invited our new friends, Bugia and Hassan, and a friend of the chief for dinner. The goat was accompanied by couscous and traditional bread, which you can see being baked in a traditional oven in the right-hand image above.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"aihmp8dur9mpcrtahndk"},{"id":"kufgvhaepibn8wjy2ssz"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

After a few days at Tanouchert the winds got stronger and they stared to blow sand. At 43°C and with hot wind blowing sand it was time for us to leave the desert. We headed back to Chinguetti, the wind was still blowing. We saw a group of people, man, woman and two boys with donkeys and water containers.

I stopped the car and Alioune asked if I could take some photos. The man said, “no problems” but quickly asked, “Can you give me and my son a lift to our home?” I said, “Of course!” hoping that I could still photograph them on their donkeys for a little while. Instead he quickly unloaded the water containers off the two donkeys and disappeared.

It turned out that only one of the boys was his son and the woman and the other young boy were someone he knew, from whom he had borrowed the donkeys to transport water. The man ran after his son, and you can see them walking through a sandstorm above. We helped him pack about 100 litres of water onto our car and off we drove to his home.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"yf15lx3cy8jc4xb7nexl"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The man who we had helped was named Abdullah. He of course invited us for tea in his hut, which was home to his four daughters and one son. That’s his son looking curiously through the hut door with the wind still blowing strong and the sand going everywhere.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"mjwmzasklh06z6sdmyta"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

You could say that some of these nomads and semi-nomads are opportunists, but, unlike the opportunists you see in bigger cities or popular tourist areas these guys are straight-forward and their requests for any kind of help are human and reasonable.

Seeing that I had a car Abdallah asked if I could drive him to a well to get more water. The well was about 5km from his hut and it would take him a few hours by donkey to go there and back. With the car it was a matter of minutes. I agreed to drive him, took more photos along the way and refreshed myself with a couple of buckets of cold water.

"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The twelve days that we spent in the desert were now wearing us out. The heat, the hot wind and sand were becoming too much for Tanya. It was time to leave this amazing region. Abdullah’s family saw us off and off we went, back to Atar and then to the capital, Nouakchott.

"}}],"slug":"mauritania-into-the-adrar","cover":"cmytprh5luqtdocjzyyy","location_label":"Mauritania","place_id":"ChIJTzmzFMO4gA4RTlO-1usLIoM","country":"MR","created_at":"2019-04-26T16:50:10.990Z","updated_at":"2019-10-31T20:02:44.299Z","published_at":"2019-04-26T17:57:37.749Z","user":{"id":76,"firstname":"Mitchell","lastname":"Kanashkevich","name":"Mitchell Kanashkevich","username":"mitchell.kanashkevich","bio":"A tirelessly curious world wanderer and a travel/documentary photographer. My main passion lies in capturing photos with a strong human interest. I am also the co-creator of Eyevoyage.com.","photo":"ldj0kohubou5gcfvrpc2","website":null,"twitter_username":null,"instagram_username":null,"role":"traveler","supplier_motivations":[],"supplier_types":[],"supplier_roles":[],"supplier_countries":[],"supplier_regions":null,"supplier_company":null,"supplier_lodging":null,"supplier_transport":null,"supplier_guiding":null,"facebook_url":null,"tripadvisor_url":null,"linkedin_url":null,"whatsapp_preference":null,"rating":0,"reviews_count":0,"instagram_followers":null,"verified":false,"expert":false}},"9":{"id":9,"title":"Other Ways of Being","description":"A portrait series from the far corners of the world — showing entirely other ways of being. It is our differences that give us hope, that inspire, and that open our eyes. They are the very essence of why we travel and explore.","body":[{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

It is our differences that give us hope, that inspire, and that open our eyes. They are the very essence of why we travel and explore.

"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

As humans we all have the same fundamental needs. The need for food, water, shelter. In every culture we see acts beyond the physical. We all dance, sing, play music, and create art but what is really amazing is how in different cultures they are expressed with different rhythms, and in a different cadence.

Whether it is the Himba women in Namibia, the Moken Sea Gypsies of Myanmar or the Kuna Indians of Panama, these people show us other ways of thinking, other ways of being, other ways of orienting ourselves in the world.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"dsiu0fwime8sfhvjmmmc"}],"caption":"Anakao, Province Toilara, Madagascar\n\n"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The Vezo

Relying entirely on fishing, these people have been navigating the stretch of the Indian Ocean that separates Madagascar from the African continent in hand-carved pirogues for the past 2,000 years. Below a young Vezo fisherman paddles by me out of curiosity off the coast of Madagascar.

Vezo means “people who fish.”

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"xt5ki1sin3tycx0fdyfl"}],"caption":"Anakao, Province Toilara, Madagascar"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Today the livelihoods of the Vezo fishermen are at risk as commercial fishing boats from Asia are overfishing the local waters. Sadly, they have had to resort to sailing farther and farther offshore to provide for their families.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"qrod7t91q4nmbcez8tk1"}],"caption":"Anakao, Province Toilara, Madagascar"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The Kuna

The San Blas Islands of Panama are ruled by the Kuna, a small statured indigenous people respected for their fierceness in battle.

Luckily these days they wield fishing nets and spear guns instead of weapons, grow many kinds of fruit and veg on the mainland and leave most of their islands to swaying coconut palms.

They are fiercely protective of their traditions, especially their clothing of colorful hand sewn garments and beaded jewelry.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"ykwcvkllcfkre7zde5ak"}],"caption":"Guna Yala, Panama"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The Himba

Known for covering their skin with otize — a mixture of butter fat and ochre that gives their skin a red coloring — women of the Himba tribe begin braiding their hair from when they are young, identifying their age and their social status.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"eoti3zfoqtrjtk0ra2dt"}],"caption":"Guna Yala, Panama"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The Himba’s seclusion has helped to protect their cultural traditions, but severe droughts have forced some of them to flee to nearby towns. Today their numbers are unfortunately declining.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"kjyj2odxxhl4lsfzcqdh"}],"caption":"Kunene Region, Namibia"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Below, a young Himba girl riding to town on her donkey.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"jxl4jknybqk9qvgogom9"}],"caption":"Kunene Region, Namibia"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Many of the Himba wear beautiful, traditional neckwear.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"icyzj15vifi3zblvfgfd"}],"caption":"Kunene Region, Namibia"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The Sadhu

These Naga Baba, or Sadhu, are attending the colorful Kumbh Mela religious festival in India.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"cxfyq2tpl3mqhvmifzsx"}],"caption":"Haridwar, Uttarakhand, India"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Often painting their faces white and with flowers in their hair, many of the Sadhu also have massive dreadlocks wrapped around their heads.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"dti0atxo8qafqss5kuzk"}],"caption":"Haridwar, Uttarakhand, India"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The Moken

These sea gypsies are a small group of people who live their lives at sea in their small wooden boats. Their knowledge of the ocean allows them to survive off of marine life using basic fishing implements.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"z1iwai0rwxvxxofhdkq7"}],"caption":"Letsok - aw, Republic of the Union of Myanmar"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

They spend so much time diving in the ocean that it is said that Moken children see better underwater than above.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"bgdjhsicnaodka1sa3bx"}],"caption":"Letsok - aw, Republic of the Union of Myanmar"}}],"slug":"other-ways-of-being","cover":"voxqn1jvqefjupgkux8y","location_label":"Madagascar","place_id":"ChIJRYUj6uOk0SERiBN7l8HjRFI","country":"MG","created_at":"2019-04-26T19:32:56.856Z","updated_at":"2019-11-25T19:46:11.016Z","published_at":"2019-04-26T19:52:45.021Z","user":{"id":81,"firstname":"Jody","lastname":"Macdonald","name":"Jody Macdonald","username":"jody.macdonald","bio":"An adventure sport, expedition and documentary-style photographer searching for stories in remote corners of the planet. jodymacdonaldphotography.com","photo":"chjdazzrye0tvu1niblh","website":"jodymacdonaldphotography.com","twitter_username":null,"instagram_username":null,"role":"traveler","supplier_motivations":[],"supplier_types":[],"supplier_roles":[],"supplier_countries":[],"supplier_regions":null,"supplier_company":null,"supplier_lodging":null,"supplier_transport":null,"supplier_guiding":null,"facebook_url":null,"tripadvisor_url":null,"linkedin_url":null,"whatsapp_preference":null,"rating":0,"reviews_count":0,"instagram_followers":null,"verified":false,"expert":false}},"10":{"id":10,"title":"Journey Through the Sahara","description":"For 700km, day and night, we slithered through the vast uninhabited Sahara desert, sleeping on top of Mauritania’s infamous iron ore train. Heading for the coast, we hoped to find a place of forgotten shipwrecks and unknown surf.","body":[{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

When I was young I would pore over National Geographic magazines and dream of adventures like this — train hopping through the Sahara Desert on one of the world’s longest trains.

I had dreamt of the oceans, of the sand, the loud clattering noises of the train, the cold, the wind, the scorching sun. The unknown smells and sounds of the desert, and all the discomfort that goes with it.

That visceral experience was exactly what we got as we slithered night and day through the vast uninhabited desert, sleeping on top of Mauritania’s infamous iron ore train. Our unconventional 700km journey took us right through the Sahara to reach the coast, where we were hoping to find a place of forgotten shipwrecks and unknown surf.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"bwkqqlaba0s9b6sq8dh7"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

I have always been enthralled by the idea of train hopping and have a particular fascination with the Sahara Desert. As I began researching this unique country, I became even more intrigued. Not many people travel in this part of the world and even fewer have even heard of Mauritania — quite astounding considering that its territory is twice the size of France and takes up a large portion of north western Africa.

Our journey began in the capital of Nouakchott, from where I travelled north with a surfer to hop on the Mauritania Railway. We planned to ride the 2.5km long train from a small town called Choum, located south of the iron mine in Zouerat, toward the port of Nouadhibou on the Atlantic coast. My aim was to try and capture the spirit of adventure and exploration as we passed through this incredible desolate landscape.

For me, adventure is not about the destination, but about the challenges, hardship and inevitable beauty in the process of getting there.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"sz4nsaswsoxyahxoicda"},{"id":"bzfvk3argkke6vuzstjc"},{"id":"ojrmea5dnirdc3fzorub"},{"id":"c8mkljptdkmvuvumqrhx"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

From Nouakchott we worked our way through the interior, on what can barely be described as roads. On one particular day the weather conditions take a turn for the worse and a desert sandstorm begins to form on the horizon. I had stopped to take some photographs and before we knew it, the wind picked up considerably and it started to rain.

Within minutes, the sky darkens and the winds increase to what we guess is around 150km/hr. The stinging and blowing of the sand act as sandpaper and is so intense that I feel like my exposed skin is starting to come off.

We quickly find ourselves pinned to the side of our truck, as we try to find some shelter and reprieve. When the wind dies down and we are finally able to climb back inside the truck there are pieces of shattered glass everywhere. Our back window has completely imploded and the interior is soaked. Our guide, who had been waiting for us in the back seat, has cuts all over his body from the glass. As the storm settles we resumed our journey north through the desert, anxious to find the next unexpected turn of events.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"gzgpdieocsc34dbufbrq"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

When we finally reach Choum, we are told that the train usually passes through sometime in the late afternoon. As we settle in and wait in the dirt by the tracks, a few families showed up with their goats and boxes of various goods. The kids run around while the parents make dinner and tea on small fires. As the light of the day descends and the sun dips below the horizon we resolved to try to get some sleep. When the train finally arrives, it is six hours late and long after midnight. We grab our gear and wait for the train to slow but it doesn’t actually stop. We run alongside the cars carrying the iron ore, illuminating the ground ahead with our headlamps.

We have no idea how much time we have to get on so we quickly pick a car and climbed up one of the ladders, throwing our gear and ourselves into it as fast as possible. With no warning the train picks up speed again.

We try to get a sense of our surroundings but end up creating a makeshift bed to try and get some sleep on the heaped mounds of jagged iron ore that fill our car. During the night, the desert temperatures drop dramatically and I put on all the clothes I have to try and get a little sleep. Any kind of rest is difficult not only because the train is incredibly loud, but because its huge length means that whenever it increases or decreases speed the cars hammer together violently.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"k9gslsmgmj8sc0yyy9bp"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Dawn brings with it the realization that the dust from the iron ore has seeped into all of our clothing, staining everything a rusty red hue. The abrasive dust gets everywhere, so we wear ski goggles to protect our eyes and wrap scarves around our heads to prevent us from breathing it in.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"xrqi7hhhyjiyc7kk15t4"},{"id":"v2qazw32b9bsa9cc1ahr"},{"id":"txvuwmsygj0ysffz19by"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

As the sun gives us warmth, we look out across the vast Sahara desert taking in the endless sand and arid plains. Relentless winds have endlessly recast the undulating dunes of the interior leaving a stark beauty.

The Mauritania Railway serves not only as the sole connection between remote locations and the country’s only major shipping port, Nouadhibou, but as free transport for locals seeking to travel from isolated communities to the coast. The hours pass slowly and the temperatures rise inexorably to become a blistering, sweltering heat. In some ways, there is little to see along the way except a few very small homes and dead camels wasting away beside the tracks.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"s1txd5n6of8m9y9xlcrq"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Eventually we reach the coast and pull into Nouadhibou station, where we head out in search of unknown surf and a huge cemetery of lost shipwrecks. There are land mines peppering the landscape here, so access to the coast is a delicate task. In recent years, many of the shipwrecks have been dismantled and sold for their metal but there are still some fascinating rusting ship skeletons to be found.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"xcvf90ivqd1lhkecdi3f"},{"id":"ew0vtr2kcothbfwdlmqg"},{"id":"nbb8bwfxlcd5yabga4s5"},{"id":"sbzqylndlh001rsxbx4n"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

From the shipwreck graveyards my curiosity leads me to spend time with the Imraguen fishermen in Banc d’Arguin National Park. It is a world heritage site because of its natural resources and fisheries. The Imraguen people have maintained their age-old lifestyles, based almost exclusively on harvesting the migratory fish populations using traditional sailboats.

The Imraguen fishermen still use traditional techniques that are unchanged since they were first recorded by 15th century Portuguese explorers.

One thing that shocks me is that the fishermen cannot swim. The night I arrive in their village, locals tell me that one of fishermen has fallen from his boat and is believed to have drowned. The next day we help the community look for his body but it is never found. It seems incredible to me that these people live their whole lives by the sea and spend every day fishing, yet still do not know how to swim, almost as though cultural superstition prevents them from wanting to learn.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"x1t1puerpknnlary9cdh"},{"id":"apthy8pxjw2sc5rssxuz"},{"id":"tv45gztzyuwp3ljgsfwm"},{"id":"jkqeiosgqwjiczjr2m5j"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

As my journey comes to an end I reflect on our experiences. I realize that this adventure has been one of those rare times in life when the expectations of your dreams and reality converge, and your adventures play out even better than you imagined.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[]}}],"slug":"journey-through-the-sahara","cover":"gqoje1ako2mrjwckaobf","location_label":"Sahara Desert","place_id":"ChIJUXEm-2Q7iBMRkHMtWNxrQNY","country":"EG","created_at":"2019-04-26T20:05:12.179Z","updated_at":"2019-10-31T20:02:44.443Z","published_at":"2019-04-26T20:15:15.828Z","user":{"id":81,"firstname":"Jody","lastname":"Macdonald","name":"Jody Macdonald","username":"jody.macdonald","bio":"An adventure sport, expedition and documentary-style photographer searching for stories in remote corners of the planet. jodymacdonaldphotography.com","photo":"chjdazzrye0tvu1niblh","website":"jodymacdonaldphotography.com","twitter_username":null,"instagram_username":null,"role":"traveler","supplier_motivations":[],"supplier_types":[],"supplier_roles":[],"supplier_countries":[],"supplier_regions":null,"supplier_company":null,"supplier_lodging":null,"supplier_transport":null,"supplier_guiding":null,"facebook_url":null,"tripadvisor_url":null,"linkedin_url":null,"whatsapp_preference":null,"rating":0,"reviews_count":0,"instagram_followers":null,"verified":false,"expert":false}},"14":{"id":14,"title":"Naked by Choice","description":"All over the world, tribal communities are facing a balancing act as they try to preserve their ancient cultural past while adapting to a modern world. In the Nyae Nyae region of Namibia the Ju/’hoansi Bushmen are changing the perception of their people from a primitive curiosity to the protectors of ancient wisdom.","body":[{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

We marched for hours through the high grass and endless scrub of the central Kalahari.

The “Old Man,” as he is known in the village, stopped only briefly to examine a small dent in the sandy soil or inspect the trace of a passing animal. He moved gracefully over the inhospitable land with a confidence that comes from centuries of accumulated knowledge. We followed at a distance as he scanned the horizon, silently tracking something in the immeasurable distance. “Kudo,” announced our young English-speaking Ju/’hoan-San guide, pointing to a wooded area silhouetted against the strong glare of the morning sun.

Known around the world as Bushmen, this derogatory term referring to the African hunter-gatherers of myth and legend, has recently lost much of its negative connotation. The San Bushmen are one of the oldest populations on Earth and one of the most thoroughly studied groups of indigenous people in the history of anthropology. Once called “living fossils,” by nineteenth-century western scholars and advertised as the last link to our ancient hunter-gather existence, the San have been a fascination and curiosity ever since the first stories and pictures of small, nearly naked Africans circulated the world a century ago.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"nogb7t78mdirgehvf3pt"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Today, there are approximately 85,000 to 100,000 San living in six southern African countries, where they have been largely marginalized from the modern world. Ju/’hoan is a branch of the click language, Khoisan, which is spoken in northeast Namibia and the northwest region of Botswana (/’ refers to a click sound in the language). The Ju/’hoan of the Nyae Nyae region, as they prefer to be called, are the second largest group of San Bushmen in Namibia and continue to reside on a small portion of their ancestral lands near the Botswana border.

It didn’t take long for our cool morning walk to turn into a scorching trek across the sun–beaten savanna. Barefoot and standing no more than five feet tall, the Old Man was remarkably fit. His hair was mostly gray and his leathery skin exhibited scratches and scars acquired through years of battle with the desert. As we walked, he identified several of the nearly 100 species of edible plants, nuts, fruits, and tubers that were the staple foods of his ancestors.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"lo6cttje16frtoimnfvw"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Dressed in an animal-skin loincloth, and carrying a bow and quiver of arrows, the Old Man was in fact leading our small group on what the tourist program described as a “Hunting Trip.” Presented as a full day of walking in the wild trying to catch warthog, kudu, springhare, or “whatever might be so careless to cross our way,” it was one of eight experiences available to visitors at the Living Hunter’s Museum of the Ju/’hoan San in the Nyae Nyae Conservancy.

As we stopped for a short break from the mid-day sun and warm Kalahari wind, it was becoming apparent that our bush experience would be more about tracking than actually hunting. “There are not as many animals anymore,” noted our young guide. Resting under a large baobab tree, this realization brought an end to the hunt and gave us a chance to ask the Old Man about his life in the Kalahari and what modern San refer to as the “Old Way.”

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"glzbrztku0q13xft6jdp"},{"id":"nuupmwnguhc56u9t8gqc"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The Ju/’hoansi who live in the Nyae Nyae Conservancy are the only San officially allowed to hunt in their traditional way on their ancestral lands, but it has been over a half century since bands roamed freely living off the land throughout the Namibian Kalahari. While their ancestors had been traveling through the veld hunting and gathering food for tens of thousands of years, prior to Namibian independence from South African rule in 1990, the San had few rights to land, resources, or wildlife.

As the young nation grew out of the ashes of nearly 70 years of oppression under apartheid, the Namibian government demonstrated a strong commitment to further the rights of historically disadvantaged indigenous people. They initiated programs to deliver educational support, water development, food, and pensions to the elderly.

After years of conversation and debate, legislation for a new natural resource management structure known as a Conservancy was passed in 1996. It allowed for local communities to form conservancies to both manage and benefit from wildlife and tourism that took place on multi-use communal land. In June of 1998, the Nyae Nyae region became the first conservancy in Namibia, and for the first time a small group of former hunter-gatherers had the right to make decisions about the use of their ancestral lands.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"bgiq4d4hmqtx3trhdq0r"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Our small group sat in the shade under the baobab tree for quite a while talking with the Old Man through our translator guide. It was a forward thinking San named !Amace who had initiated The Living Hunter’s Museum in 2010 after studying the success of Namibia’s first living museum, which opened a few years prior.

With the help of the German-Namibian organization, Living Culture Foundation Namibia, the community at //Xa/oba entered the tourism industry. “We were very poor,” !Amace later told me. “Now almost everyone in the village is a part of the museum.”

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"hogu4ekudez2trcuixx7"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

In addition to the hunting experience, programs at the Museum include learning to light a fire, making ropes and snares, shooting with a bow and arrow, searching for bush food, traditional singing and dancing, and storytelling around a campfire. Each experience has an associated price.

In addition to hunting, our group had also selected traditional dancing and storytelling. After a short rest back at our campsite, we made our way through the bush towards the distant sound of song. Nearly half the village was waiting in their traditional dress (or more accurately mostly undressed) at the replica village of their ancestors. I mounted my camera on a tripod as the sun began to set.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"xuhczvfz3vt8uvfcjelc"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Following a short introduction by !Amace, several generations of Ju/’hoansi sang and danced in the soft sand. The Old Man and the village healer sat quietly by a small campfire. Naked children ran, jumped, and wrestled at their parent’s feet. Several women nursed infants as they clapped to the desultory ballet. The campfire scene had all the romantic and exotic flavor of a first contact with an ancient lost tribe. It was an intoxicating display.

While the large group danced and enjoyed themselves as if our cameras weren’t there, this was clearly a performance inspired by our tourist visit. I was happily clicking away, taking pictures of “small, nearly naked Africans” just like those that inspired foolishly considered comments like “living fossils” so many years ago. I also understood that without proper context my images could easily perpetuate the myth that the descendants of some of the earliest humans to inhabit Southern Africa were still living idyllic, isolated lives untouched by history.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"socwtb5qubmghlneltuc"},{"id":"ck88tiytfuqcyl9dfudc"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

On the surface, images of Ju/’hoansi dressed in their traditional costumes might appear to perpetuate the antiquated and insensitive narrative of the uncivilized African savage suspended in a perpetual state of nakedness, but the story isn’t quite that simple. The Ju/’hoan “actors” performing in pseudo tourist events are only one generation removed from the lifestyle they depict.

Their authenticity is raw and comes from a renewed pride in their culture of antiquity. They are naked by choice. They have chosen to perform for tourists and in doing so are changing the perception of their people from a primitive curiosity to the protectors of ancient wisdom. The youngest children I photographed had no understanding that they were a part of a tourist performance they were simply dancing with their brothers and sisters, just as the members of their tribe had done for generations.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"ir9s4zvmcb6txd6clsdb"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

“Sadly,” “unfortunately,” and “regrettably” are all terms recently used in modern media to refer to the fact that the Bushmen of the Kalahari can no longer live the life of hunter-gatherers, implying that the San of today would be content with the ways of the past. But when I asked the Old Man what it was like to live the Old Way while we were sitting under the baobab tree, he said without hesitation, “living in the bush is hard. The children were almost always hungry.”

“Life is better now,” he added with a nod.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"wjdjob21pgyrcijmlzhq"},{"id":"vu7qtbd8kur1v4lrit4i"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

For the Ju/’hoan elders in the village of //Xa/oba, the Living Hunters Museum is a positive and authentic recreation of their old way of life. They say that their old ways give meaning to their lives and connect them through generations. The Museum is a workplace and entrepreneurial business that they own and control. The profits are shared among the community. !Amace says the tourist performances and storytelling are also “a way for us to pass on our culture without it being lost forever.” San children from all over the region come with their schoolmates to learn about their long and fascinating past.

The oral history and traditions of the San are being recorded by elders in their native tongue and written down for future generations. Even the word Bushmen is being ennobled by the Ju/’hoansi themselves to refer to their great environmental knowledge and bush skills.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"i8bksogcafvvnjpsvpvw"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

It is easy to embrace the romantic notion that indigenous cultures should be preserved and that tribal people, even those on the edge of existence, should be allowed to live in peace like their ancestors have for centuries. But for communities who live hard lives in inhospitable places, more abundant food, clean drinking water, better medicines, less infant mortality, education, and a longer life expectancy should not be interpreted as unfortunate effects of modernity on a romanticized indigenous culture.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"cavcvf56xmdjmdvwdbzm"},{"id":"dvxzsnluweng9ylpzews"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

All over the world, tribal communities are facing a similar balancing act as they try to preserve their ancient cultural past while educating their children to compete in a modern, digital world, wearing trousers and skirts instead of loincloths. Increasingly, indigenous tribes are taking control of their tourist product and the image of their culture that is presented for tourist consumption.

Although the Ju/’hoansi remain very poor by most international measures, the Conservancy has supplied jobs and income for many in the community, and has allowed the Ju/’hoansi living in the Nyae Nyae to have a choice about their future and a voice in how their destiny unfolds.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"zt5vy6xdq1xszjrzlcxf"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Type here

"}}],"slug":"naked-by-choice","cover":"lgh3npdjke2nqsx3ot4p","location_label":"Kalahari Desert","place_id":"ChIJVQS1Fsz0EBwRdeFzwLbgh6o","country":"BW","created_at":"2019-05-23T22:51:27.460Z","updated_at":"2019-10-04T21:42:06.187Z","published_at":"2019-05-23T22:56:56.045Z","user":{"id":94,"firstname":"David","lastname":"Noyes","name":"David Noyes","username":"david.noyes","bio":null,"photo":"xdbr8wocmlcaityz3ae5","website":null,"twitter_username":null,"instagram_username":null,"role":"traveler","supplier_motivations":[],"supplier_types":[],"supplier_roles":[],"supplier_countries":[],"supplier_regions":null,"supplier_company":null,"supplier_lodging":null,"supplier_transport":null,"supplier_guiding":null,"facebook_url":null,"tripadvisor_url":null,"linkedin_url":null,"whatsapp_preference":null,"rating":0,"reviews_count":0,"instagram_followers":null,"verified":false,"expert":false}},"17":{"id":17,"title":"The Greatest Show on Earth","description":"Only in the last half a century have the great herds of migrating wildebeest spilled across the Mara River and into Kenya. Strange-looking and ungainly, and yet it is these gnu that offer one of the greatest spectacles on Earth each year, and that would create a memory I will cherish for a lifetime.","body":[{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

At the first light of dawn in Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve, safari trucks speed off into the sunrise in hopes of a close encounter with one of Africa’s glamorous cats.

The early morning is the best time to catch a glimpse of the beautiful and elusive animals before they seek shelter from the midday heat. Yet while lions, leopards and cheetahs are thrilling to see in the wild—offering some of the sexiest photographic memories—it is the strange-looking and ungainly wildebeest, however, that offers one of the greatest natural spectacles on earth.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"mybfuykxgxqrqw3hakhe"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The wildebeest—or gnu (pronounced g-noo or new)—is a bovid antelope belonging to the family of even-toed horned ungulates that includes cattle and goats. With its shaggy mane, long thin face, pointed beard and spindly legs, the wildebeest is immediately recognizable on the Serengeti plains. It is also quite possibly the single most important species in the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"dwjrlocjka9pv6hpv2co"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

From their historic breeding grounds in Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Conservation Area to their long grazing layover in the Mara, each year an estimated 1.5 million wildebeest, along with hundreds of thousands of zebra and gazelle, make a 500-mile migratory circle in search of food. They are constantly on the move, devouring thousands of acres of grassland before continuing on to greener pastures.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"xhlwiwvfimsqxbg7h8rk"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

While they do have distinctive family groupings within the herds, wildebeest travel as a giant swarm. Over the course of the migration, they experience the full cycle of life as they run a gauntlet of never-ending dangers. During a six-week period in February and March, nearly a half-million calves are born.

Remarkably, nearly 80 percent are born during the same two weeks. Within minutes, a newborn calf can stand and then run with the herd. Drawn by thunder or the smell of distant rains, huge numbers soon spread out over Tanzania’s southwest plains, enjoying nutrient-rich grass and abundant water.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"piuhzfwtutkhm1aapv3w"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

In late May to early June, wildebeest begin their rut, as males battle over females. By July, the migration begins its turn northeast for the Maasai Mara, where they will graze until October before returning south to their breeding grounds in Tanzania—with pregnant females leading the way.

By the time we arrived in the Massai Mara after first spending a few days at the Samburu Game Reserve and Lake Nakuru, it was mid-October. The feasting was nearly over, and rains were threatening on the horizon.

Thousands of animals had already started their migration south, and the rest were forming into single-file lines stretching for miles across the border into Tanzania. All over the Mara these lines were converging around corners and over hills. We encountered huge pockets of wildebeest apparently reluctant to leave—only the last few stragglers remained north of the Mara River.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"guulm8fq4ek2mvpekke3"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

I have made several trips to the Maasai Mara, but this was the first time I have seen the great herds on their annual journey.

It is actually a relatively new phenomenon to witness the migration in the Massai Mara at all. In fact, it has only been in my lifetime that the migration has spilled across the Mara River and into Kenya. Disease, human investment and shifting rain patterns in the Serengeti- Mara ecosystem have combined over the last 40 years to change the equation for the great herds on the grasslands of East Africa.

During the first half of the 20th century, the wildebeest population was devastated by rinderpest—a highly contagious virus that is thought to have been introduced to East Africa by domestic cattle.

In the 1950s, a broad-scale program was initiated to eradicate the virus, and in 1962, the last case of rinderpest was found in wildebeest. From a population of 250,000 in 1961, the number of wildebeest swelled to nearly 1.5 million by 1978, and has remained stable ever since.

The other contributing factor to the adjusted migration route and rapid population growth was a significant change in rainfall patterns that brought increased precipitation to the northern Serengeti-Mara region during the dry season. With a healthy population and increased supply of reliable food just to the north, the wildebeest would thrive for decades and affect the lives of countless other animals.

At a time when human population growth threatened animal habitats all over the world, the wildebeest extended its range and helped to sustain the big cats of East Africa.

Following lunch and a brief siesta, we boarded our safari truck for an afternoon game drive. In a routine that had developed after days on safari together, we found our respective positions in the truck, readied our cameras, and started peppering our Kikuyu guide, Peter Muigai Muruthi, with dozens of questions about what we were seeing through the dusty windows of our Land Cruiser.

Thirty minutes out, we slowly pulled into a clearing along the Mara River where Muigai (as he prefers to be called) shut off the rumbling diesel engine, revealing the soundtrack of East Africa we had come to appreciate. The afternoon wind on the grasses, the distant songs of exotic birds, the rush of the nearby river, and the increasingly familiar grunts, growls and snorts of the world’s greatest animal sanctuary had become an enjoyable and familiar part of our safari experience.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"pmmrovm9xpho0kopvibp"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

At first glance, it was quiet along the river. We spotted a group of four zebra walking towards the water as we positioned our bean bags on the rim of the roof hatch to support our long camera lenses.

Along both sides of the river, several other safari trucks were now beginning to gather. Suddenly, it felt like something was about to happen…and soon. Previously hidden among the rocks and trees above the zebra, hundreds of wildebeest emerged and nervously assembled along the steep bank.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"fxcd21jklorzrdznqm8f"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

As our excitement grew, a few more zebra joined the others carefully sipping water at the riverbank. Skittish by nature, zebra will often take a quick drink of water before jumping back from some unseen danger, repeating the process until they have had their fill. But when Muigai broke the silence in his commanding baritone voice with the single word—“crocodile!”—it was clear that these zebra had something to fear.

Coming around the corner of a small peninsula, we could see a long wake moving quickly through the water. We barely had time to focus our cameras when the massive 18-foot crocodile sprang from the river at the unsuspecting zebra.

They jumped with incredible agility and scampered away unharmed. Adrenaline rushed through us as we checked our cameras to see if we had captured the moment—it happened so fast.

Then as we began to relax and catch our breath, a single wildebeest entered the water. Cries of “Oh my gosh! Oh my gosh!” came from the front of our truck as the anticipation of what might happen gripped us. The croc was slow to react. As the wildebeest exited the river safely on the other side, two others began their crossing.

A nearby pod of hippopotamuses started grunting loudly in a chilling chorus of understanding—they knew what was coming next.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"misydxu0jr4izassmiul"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Seconds later, 10 more wildebeest, then 20, then hundreds, jumped into the water in a disorderly mass. Through the dust and chaos, we lost sight of the crocodile. For a few brief minutes, the river was overwhelmed with fearless beasts frantically swimming to safety—and then…it was over. The heart-pounding drama gave way to an orderly walk towards the rest of the migrating herd.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"go8piecjjgbaiv6r03oy"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

We stood speechless for several minutes as the dust settled and quiet returned to the Mara, and we noticed the zebra were still on the far side of the river.

Their simple quest for water had erupted suddenly into a brief but wild frenzy. After the dust had settled, we thanked Muigai for putting us in the right place at the right time to experience one of the most dramatic scenes in the greatest show on earth. He responded with a characteristically humble “You’re welcome,” fired up the engine and led us away from the river in search of Africa’s glamorous cats.

We did soon encounter a resting cheetah that posed patiently for us in the fading afternoon sun; but on this trip, it was the strange-looking and ungainly gnu that created the memory we will cherish for a lifetime.

"}}],"slug":"the-greatest-show-on-earth","cover":"baftqk1m2f9fj97zymfi","location_label":"Kenya","place_id":"ChIJD5BQg9CAJxgR2W2XobAOO0A","country":"KE","created_at":"2019-05-24T14:05:04.552Z","updated_at":"2019-10-31T20:02:44.531Z","published_at":"2019-05-24T14:09:43.995Z","user":{"id":94,"firstname":"David","lastname":"Noyes","name":"David Noyes","username":"david.noyes","bio":null,"photo":"xdbr8wocmlcaityz3ae5","website":null,"twitter_username":null,"instagram_username":null,"role":"traveler","supplier_motivations":[],"supplier_types":[],"supplier_roles":[],"supplier_countries":[],"supplier_regions":null,"supplier_company":null,"supplier_lodging":null,"supplier_transport":null,"supplier_guiding":null,"facebook_url":null,"tripadvisor_url":null,"linkedin_url":null,"whatsapp_preference":null,"rating":0,"reviews_count":0,"instagram_followers":null,"verified":false,"expert":false}},"53":{"id":53,"title":"Savannah Life","description":"From the proud lion parents taking their cubs out for a morning stroll, to the sparring session of two energetic male giraffes, there is never a dull moment as I become acquainted with the fascinating wildlife living in Kenya, Tanzania, and South Africa.","body":[{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Tanzania

"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Zebras are social herd animals with very strong eyesight. Their black and white stripes help them to keep safe, by confusing predators into seeing one large animal rather than individuals as they all blend together.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"xmtcu1icgbr1dn9rdpxy"},{"id":"ck6vsuzpm2jnxcumpksm"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Wildebeest travel long distances through Eastern Africa each year to coincide with the annual pattern of rainfall and grass growth.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"ebdlunagfbshiirrhclx"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Two hyenas have a standoff in the Serengeti, Tanzania.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"krcadtrn2jslruldah86"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Cheetahs like to sit on termite mounds for a better view of the plain. These two cheetahs are brothers, lazily yawning in the sun.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"cgpftqah8vacgpiupppv"},{"id":"z3siujtcxgrdfvpazsru"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The apparent affection here between these two male giraffes is in fact a sparring session.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"mgb8j1iavtvagf7my0t9"},{"id":"yyotk6crzah3o1jh4beu"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

One moment a lion shows us his sharp teeth, the next he reveals his ‘inner cub’ as he becomes fixated on a little butterfly passing by.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"om5xqknyox9r4qbbw4q1"},{"id":"wxb5tpocukra09hh34gr"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

South Africa

A family of lionesses hunt and nuzzle together.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"q6hej3iiqxyfpemtiyxf"}]}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"aabgd5xp6pstiggvmxkk"},{"id":"m2wgdhl77decycjp68gd"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Kenya

In the Masai Mara National Park in Kenya, I photographed two lionesses with tiny cubs, out walking early in the morning. The lions were avoiding walking through the grass as it was still wet from the night before. I was in the safari jeep with my driver, and we slowly and carefully followed the lions and stopped the vehicle to let them walk past us.

It was a very moving, emotional and profound experience for me to see these lion cubs up close for the first time.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"mwuctnnmb0ipac2wyelu"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The smallest lion cub was less adventurous than his siblings and always stayed close to the lionesses.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"rk8nlcjhwtbwlmulbmls"}]}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"fbyqeivhtjxvgc33iqkp"},{"id":"ye7a5xpotngdjhh9nhgb"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

In an iconic scene from East Africa, above you can see an elephant in the foreground and the snow capped Mt Kilimanjaro in the background. While the mountain is in Tanzania across the border, it can be viewed clearly from Amboseli in Kenya.

—

Explore more of my work over at davidlazarphoto.com.

"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

PUBLISHED BY

David Lazar

A travel photographer and musician from Brisbane, who loves to capture moments of life, beauty and culture through photography.

davidlazarphoto.com

"}}],"slug":"savannah-life","cover":"nyxxr6ozivvbpt4wgy3x","location_label":"Africa","place_id":"ChIJ1fWMlApsoBARs_CQnslwghA","country":"TZ","created_at":"2019-07-13T13:26:21.228Z","updated_at":"2019-11-15T13:21:33.021Z","published_at":"2019-07-13T13:39:30.063Z","user":{"id":201,"firstname":"David","lastname":"Lazar","name":"David Lazar","username":"david.lazar","bio":null,"photo":"y0w1f8tvmmtaa5dtlmmh","website":null,"twitter_username":null,"instagram_username":null,"role":"traveler","supplier_motivations":[],"supplier_types":[],"supplier_roles":[],"supplier_countries":[],"supplier_regions":null,"supplier_company":null,"supplier_lodging":null,"supplier_transport":null,"supplier_guiding":null,"facebook_url":null,"tripadvisor_url":null,"linkedin_url":null,"whatsapp_preference":null,"rating":0,"reviews_count":0,"instagram_followers":null,"verified":false,"expert":false}},"56":{"id":56,"title":"Maasai Warriors","description":"For generations, the fierce warriors of the Maasai tribe have lived in the wilderness in Kenya.","body":[{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The people of the Maasai tribe live in the wilderness of Kenya and still uphold most of their traditional values and customs.

Traditionally, a Maasai boy would only become a Maasai warrior after he went out on his own and killed a lion, as a rite of passage. Many beautiful hand-crafted accessories and body ornaments are worn to reflect their identity, achievements and status in society.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"lwbkqsrz9qei31j0gwhe"}],"caption":"ABOVE: Two Maasai friends outside a traditional mud hut. "}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

For generations, their community has coexisted with the wildlife of the plains on which they herd their livestock, and although renowned for their fearless confrontations with predatory lions which raid their cattle herds, they do not otherwise hunt game animals.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"xvdweqv6265kmuj1tvni"}]}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"pbbwa2s0qa6qljkpyurp"},{"id":"rrsmskdh4rsbsy1e6u9z"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Maasai men are first and foremost warriors. They protect their tribe, their cattle and their grazing lands. Maasai society is strongly patriarchal in nature, with elder men, sometimes joined by retired elders, deciding the most important matters for each Maasai group. They wear the colour red to represent power.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"of1mxgmbztt5ucpsk9bg"}]}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"yvdwthiqvnagzztwq2dm"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

In the Maasai culture, it is traditional for women to have up to seventeen children, as her role in the tribe is to be one of multiple wives bearing as many children as possible.

Nowadays the number has decreased somewhat, down to six or eight children. Although giving birth to a girl is honoured due to the fact that girls can later be sold for marriage, the birth of a boy is still, in general, a happier and more celebrated event.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"yrfjbmwnvor1gg6yxbhs"}]}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"pojs8qvwm2rjji0n5koj"},{"id":"n2b70havbadqugmqreko"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

These portraits were the result of a meeting with the chief of a village, along with a translator, to arrange having a small group of Maasai people one afternoon to travel with me in a vehicle around the Maasai Mara landscape. The concept was to capture a series of photos depicting the Maasai people in their environment in a photographic style both artistic and faithful to their culture.

"}},{"type":"divider"},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Explore more of my work over at davidlazarphoto.com.

"}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

PUBLISHED BY

David Lazar

A travel photographer and musician from Brisbane, who loves to capture moments of life, beauty and culture through photography.

davidlazarphoto.com

"}}],"slug":"maasai-warriors","cover":"aapgbatozbgkabfrnobt","location_label":"Kenya","place_id":"ChIJD5BQg9CAJxgR2W2XobAOO0A","country":"KE","created_at":"2019-07-13T14:14:58.263Z","updated_at":"2020-01-09T23:21:58.849Z","published_at":"2019-07-13T14:23:23.921Z","user":{"id":201,"firstname":"David","lastname":"Lazar","name":"David Lazar","username":"david.lazar","bio":null,"photo":"y0w1f8tvmmtaa5dtlmmh","website":null,"twitter_username":null,"instagram_username":null,"role":"traveler","supplier_motivations":[],"supplier_types":[],"supplier_roles":[],"supplier_countries":[],"supplier_regions":null,"supplier_company":null,"supplier_lodging":null,"supplier_transport":null,"supplier_guiding":null,"facebook_url":null,"tripadvisor_url":null,"linkedin_url":null,"whatsapp_preference":null,"rating":0,"reviews_count":0,"instagram_followers":null,"verified":false,"expert":false}},"59":{"id":59,"title":"Silence, Rhythm and Brotherhood","description":"In the vastness of this desert, each of us is after his moment of solitude, of absolute silence and inner contemplation. On this journey I have encountered so much more than sand.","body":[{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The older Djeloul is our cook, for the moment at least.

From the first look we exchanged, I felt a connection.

I think he felt it too.

Tourist and photographer that I am, I cannot pass up the chance of first photos. Djeloul assumes a pose, perfectly so, smiling from behind his cheich — a cotton garment which is both a veil and a turban — though with an air of detachment. Through the camera lens, I can make sense of his eyes, which are saying to me, “Go on then, take your photo”. The photo is good, but it is not Djeloul I have captured.

A true photo of Djeloul is something that I will only secure much later on our journey. At the point when all the barriers have fallen away, those relating to our status as tourist and employee, as foreigner and native of the desert. When he sees me as Cédric and when I see him as Djeloul. When we feel like brothers.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"bwpry6ns5cgugcmgrl2y"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

The derboukas — drums with a goblet-shaped body — come out from the very first evening. I know that music will be at the heart of this journey.

Those who are accompanying us, guides, drivers and cooks, are all musicians. After all, who is not a musician. I don’t dare take part, not right away. Tonight I listen, I discover, and I learn. Here music, more than elsewhere, makes connections and is a language in itself. It is also one of the only things to do, and a vital necessity. In the desert, little is said. It is as if speaking is something entirely superficial. So instead people play music.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"osnhji2oxvdddovowdz5"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Over the tea which is served, three times in a row according to custom, eyes continue to exchange glances. Tourists on one side and guides on the other are smiling, seeking to understand and observe one another.

Hamdi, the group leader, makes sure he is translating. We know each others’ faces, having seen them a thousand times before on television, in magazines... But something is going to happen, although not straight away. I know that I am searching for something special, deep down within myself, in this journey, and in these characters. To take apart my preconceptions about the Maghreb, Algeria and the Arabs, and maybe to change theirs too.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"jx62zmqnccnjyibzfisa"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

This is not my first journey into Africa, but it is my first into Berber territory. Berbers for some and barbarians for others, for those who have never been here before. We are a long way from the capital Algiers, “La Blanche”, which takes its nickname from the white lustre of its buildings.

In all likelihood many Algerians know nothing of the desert and its people, their own people. In Algiers, within the space of a few hours, I could find all the trademarks of the West, its brands, its products and its values. I have not come here for all that. I have come for the desert.

And in the desert, I have encountered so much more than just sand.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"pw8tw42niwn2ogfstdue"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

We will need to spend more than twelve hours on the road departing from Ghardaia to reach our first makeshift encampment at Taghit. It is already night-time, and cold. The discovery we will make on getting out of the four-by-four is something we will look forward to experiencing again every evening, every night.

Does God exist?

I exist, and I am here, on this exact spot on our planet, which is afloat with this cluster of stars and constellations. I have never seen this sky which nevertheless has been above me always. And I can see the stars even on the horizon. Then I understand how Man, under the same vastness, at the dawn of time, started to believe in something. The stars are watching us. Some speak of God, others of a force, or an energy.

If I had the answer, I would probably no longer need to live. I could tell you that everyone feels quite small, that we mean nothing in all of this and that we are not living in the right way (and this is the truth).

All I know is what I have felt. The universe has closed in around me. I have become the universe. The universe is me, and I am stardust.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"io3q33pwvpjffmuwdzl2"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

While the guides are moving about setting up the encampment, each of us takes his first steps into the sand dunes.

If high altitude causes vertigo, the desert inhales you. When you climb a mountain, you reach a summit, yet walking in the desert feels infinite. 86,000 kilometers squared of dunes, sand, and sky.

Here in the vastness of this desert, each of us is after his moment of solitude, of absolute silence and inner contemplation.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"x3lczn4tdrzwebkn1tc4"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Once gathered again round the fire of palm tree branches, the words which come to us are completely mundane. “It’s incredible” ... “It’s insane” … “Like totally crazy” … What can you say?

And so we bring the derbouka drums out again. This time I am bold enough and Djeloul joins in with me.

It was the start of a new bond, a fresh exchange of glances, and our first piece of real communication. We each listened to the other, followed … became lost, only to come together again more strongly. It is the first moment in the journey when I am no longer this tourist who is paying to see what the other man sees every day. The first moment when I am not ashamed, and when his gaze and his smile are those of a friend.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"fsvtygjaultpthfludrh"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Without saying a single word — I speak no Arabic and he has only a little French — we have realised, Djeloul and myself, that we have something in common. Music, of course. But first and foremost a child’s spirit.

Djeloul is by far the oldest of us all, and he himself does not know his age for certain, but he is still a child. He knows it, he said as much to me. I am the same, I told him so and he knew it already.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"nailhmentcecm72t9o6s"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

One day I took him by the hand and we walked together. Rather like two childhood friends.

I turned him towards the sun and said, “Don’t move”.

Then I picked up my camera and clicked just once.

It is my brother Djeloul whose photograph I took that day.

He did not pose.

I did not want to look at the image straight away.

It wasn’t the right moment.

When I looked at it later…

It was out of focus.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"qmdndizadfwzpff7xiag"}]}},{"type":"divider"},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

PHOTOGRAPHS AND TEXT BY

VARIAL CÉDRIC HOUIN

www.varialstudio.com

"}},{"type":"divider"},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

PUBLISHED BY

Varial Cédric Houin

Varial Cédric Houin is a photographer, creative director, writer, explorer, seeker. He has put his artistic chops in the service of the planet.

www.varialstudio.com

"}}],"slug":"silence-rhythm-and-brotherhood","cover":"muthrfsbyrmslihbu8s4","location_label":"Algeria","place_id":"ChIJ0XsDKGqKfg0RovjXq-O-QHE","country":"DZ","created_at":"2019-07-13T15:02:54.173Z","updated_at":"2020-01-09T23:24:50.090Z","published_at":"2019-07-13T15:11:31.231Z","user":{"id":203,"firstname":"Varial Cédric","lastname":"Houin","name":"Varial Cédric Houin","username":"varial.cedric.houin","bio":null,"photo":"pfv74rqflcnoorynpdhb","website":null,"twitter_username":null,"instagram_username":null,"role":"traveler","supplier_motivations":[],"supplier_types":[],"supplier_roles":[],"supplier_countries":[],"supplier_regions":null,"supplier_company":null,"supplier_lodging":null,"supplier_transport":null,"supplier_guiding":null,"facebook_url":null,"tripadvisor_url":null,"linkedin_url":null,"whatsapp_preference":null,"rating":0,"reviews_count":0,"instagram_followers":null,"verified":false,"expert":false}},"277":{"id":277,"title":"In Search of the Magic of Southern Africa","description":"In September 2019 we left for Botswana and Namibia. We wanted to immerse ourselves in Africa: nature, wildlife, landscapes, cultures, and do so in small intimate groups and clearly off-the-beaten-path. We wanted creature comforts yet in rustic accommodations, services provided by local people, and the greatest opportunity for viewing of wildlife and meeting indigenous people.","body":[{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Beginning of an amazing journey in Botswana

Untrodden created quite an amazing adventure for us! We traveled to Botswana with two good friends, starting in northern Botswana at the Kwando River (Kwando Lebala Camp0, then to the Khwai community area at the Khwai River (Little Machaba Camp), and last, to the Okavango Delta (Nxabega Tented Camp). This gave us three very different environments to explore.

While there is a serious drought in Botswana, indeed in all of south Africa, our viewing of wildlife, particularly around rivers and watering holes, was just spectacular. Highlights included just seeing the majestic wildlife, as depicted above, and enjoying the villagers who served as our guides, cooks, and new friends.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"caption":"\n","images":[{"id":"hfewt1vyg8lbc4748ycl"},{"id":"cckpcm8muuwbyaoshpal"},{"id":"f1tqvmwdccptnpiim7ul"},{"id":"o1rpo9b0hpk27by200eh"},{"id":"b7gzooas50oowbxhiu4e"},{"id":"io01srv08vgm6ax6xwus"},{"id":"wqqcj0hsjpbgcnugbjor"},{"id":"a9nv4rj4eyji1tzntw1e"},{"id":"o94e1pzy0vjj726mesdf"},{"id":"zfxtjsm9jbqyghosrxfd"},{"id":"ntt0lc8lckijbp8ebzoj"},{"id":"hkcqa7elmlfukmc9vnus"},{"id":"oogx6madtvfamkplvvlf"},{"id":"llveurkvk5zmmpfmtllc"},{"id":"jx15hl0m4vjlmfa3k1ys"},{"id":"idcgohg9fjujxsehezax"},{"id":"ttbezqdzapiav2wxqbts"},{"id":"re7rpjqcqopj7auohpla"},{"id":"henmmazqkvlpt851l2fb"},{"id":"dcwzrxjnhlodus2lqjzs"},{"id":"hgleqiy06qekix04vrxk"},{"id":"h2vkrg3fkpxerx8vzg7s"},{"id":"up2drczbq89tjgi0iqw5"},{"id":"lqilqik8pb4agggvjmfa"},{"id":"qh78mcxuudusa8foke0s"},{"id":"srjizmf9ynfmfm4cq7nh"},{"id":"o0nymnr82zevkdakgeo0"},{"id":"aonqkkphgaeq21mxhmyh"},{"id":"nwkyynw6zmnuf1qnyzxe"},{"id":"ee4qarbop6ygsymmuwpl"},{"id":"pokwvionhkstrbyreawt"},{"id":"nww5chmlngp0j8vthlxm"},{"id":"vbce98tkxxnyqq8vfzq8"},{"id":"rtmu3fgfl19zc9wajsrv"},{"id":"njrmwclerrket3qmo73d"},{"id":"gohdajxldzgdsoypc5fo"},{"id":"iblm7pxy7gumihhyxdqq"},{"id":"gs3boc32geoejelmv4mo"},{"id":"uojnr6911awtusd9c0kj"},{"id":"gcimjeg3yqy4s2ivs88q"},{"id":"m7t6fqkjcark5ekhr5ey"},{"id":"icfkg8zu43j7kz5zc2xt"},{"id":"d6z2bi1wkyjgskxvsaku"},{"id":"vncvuuhvkxychp7iv8el"},{"id":"rjvqejw2bcyv2ozkinol"},{"id":"x84bcl5py10s4bdldruq"},{"id":"dwbhe9vngapucrfacwck"},{"id":"dijuyt97wz31lryn9e2x"},{"id":"cgbqm93vpxpxyb4vif3d"},{"id":"hakt6oiepkjpvpkv0xd8"},{"id":"sy204ejaznc7ncahxzqp"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

A special treat was taking a canoe down the tributary to the Khwai River to find a large family of elephants crossing the river just in front of us.

"}},{"type":"images","content":{"images":[{"id":"k9xahsbp3qxoy2li6mwo"},{"id":"lt3dhwby0cxwesf3vixb"},{"id":"ifn9ymllo4ulwhlmegwf"},{"id":"u5xgrdrqpkin74dikf7v"},{"id":"q7bewtyutbvczsaxh2uc"}]}},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Another highlight was a walking safari at Nxabega. We stepped out of our camp just in time for an impala to fly by about 10 feet away being chased by 5 Wild African Dogs, all too fast to record by camera! We saw leopards, and in particular a female leopard calling frantically for her young cubs to come out from their hiding place. No response. We were assured that they would emerge once our vehicle left.

We literally saw every animal we came to see, including the elusive cheetah! We were watching lions from a close distance and heard the lioness roar, a sound like no other, loud enough to vibrate the vehicle.

Botswana, its wildlife, landscapes and people were the adventure we had hoped for. Our wonderful meals served by local villagers, including surprise campfires and dinners in the bush made for some real treats. We had many deep discussions about the political conditions in Botswana around those dining tables and the reversal of the ban on hunting elephants. That recent decision almost caused us to cancel our trip to Botswana. Justin at Untrodden counseled us to consider making more of a difference by discussing the complex issues of human-elephant conflicts and how to solve the problem of overpopulation of elephants in Botswana. We listened and engaged in those discussions with locals. As a result, I was asked to take our ideas to the Minister of the Environment and see if we can help find a solution. I am following up. I had read the book \"The Elephant Whisperer\" en route to Botswana and along the first part of the trip. I recommend it to all as a way of understanding the emotional and intellectual makeup of elephants and their behaviors. It is a powerful tale of a relationship between a South African man and elephants, and it helped inform my thoughts about how and why to save these incredible animals in Botswana.

Another highlight was the conservation ethic at our camps, among the villagers, and from our fellow explorers. The guides and trackers we3re not only extremely knowledgable about the behaviors of the animals we sought to see, but they were also respectful of the animals. When we came upon a young hyena waiting for its mother in the open to return, we were assured that the guides would check on it in the event that the mother didn't return and would then provide food to help the baby survive. They also ensured that we were not in large groups of other people observing the animals. They were mindful of the need to conserve water, utilize solar energy, and minimize waste. It was very heartening to see such lengths our camps weren't to be good environmental stewards.

"}},{"type":"divider"},{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Onto Namibia

Namibia is the land of few people and much \"empty\" space, beautiful orange dunes, the joyous and friendly Himba villagers, and wildlife that just melts into the incredible landscapes. We went to the Desert Rhino Camp and then to northernmost Namibia to Serra Cafema Camp on the river that separates Namibia from Angola.

At the Rhino Camp a highlight was the translation of our menus from English to Namatamera, a click language spoken by the locals. Cookouts in the bush around a fire and of course the viewing of the magnificent black rhinos were highlights. The rhinos' horns were cut to prevent poaching for their horns. We saw a solo rhino as well as a mother and her 4 year old calf, almost her size.

Serra Cafema and our visit to the Himba Village was the highlight of the whole trip. \"Mama\", the matriarch of the village, was so full of life and welcomed us into her hut and village. We bestowed packaged food on the village, as the drought had been hard on the village: their cattle were dying of starvation, thus depriving them of the trading value of the cattle as well as much needed milk and meat.

The dunes, orange sand, a majestic landscapes captured us as well. We were fortunate to go by boat down the river and crossed to the Angola side, visiting a village there. Not only were the landscapes amazing by land but also by air.

We recommend this itinerary to everyone!!

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Why did you decide to start leading experiential travel tours?

I started leading travel tours because of my love for my country and its culture and my desire to share it with people from different parts of the world. Additionally, the tours allow me to meet people from different places of the world and learn about how vast and varied the world is.

What do you hope to gain from showing people your environment and culture?

Primarily I want to show them that despite the differences in cultures, we are all the same. Furthermore, through the kind of tourism I offer, I aim to create income for the local communities who need that. I also hope to make a living for myself and my family out of these tours.

What are you most excited to share with tourists?

I'm excited to share the rich history of my country, the rich traditions, and the culture.

What fears do you have about making your land and lifestyle more public?

I have no fears at all. We love to have visitors. Moroccans are known for their hospitality.

What specifically about your culture/history/environment would be beneficial for a traveler to learn about before taking their trip?

We are people who love to meet travelers seeking true contact and experience with the locals. Tourism is very important for us economically speaking, and by visiting us they are supporting small businesses.

"}}],"slug":"fatima-habte","cover":"nk28syon0rfo2sbb66ty","location_label":"Morocco","place_id":"ChIJjcVRlmGICw0Rw_8sxIGT09k","country":"MA","created_at":"2020-08-10T15:16:46.908Z","updated_at":"2020-08-10T16:29:53.332Z","published_at":"2020-08-10T16:29:53.315Z","user":{"id":1166,"firstname":"Annie","lastname":"Yanofsky","name":"Annie Yanofsky","username":"annie.yanofsky","bio":null,"photo":"mipj3ke6veex0f4nqbhv","website":"","twitter_username":"","instagram_username":"","role":"traveler","supplier_motivations":["protecting_culture"],"supplier_types":["storyteller"],"supplier_roles":["trip_leader"],"supplier_countries":[],"supplier_regions":null,"supplier_company":null,"supplier_lodging":null,"supplier_transport":null,"supplier_guiding":null,"facebook_url":null,"tripadvisor_url":null,"linkedin_url":null,"whatsapp_preference":null,"rating":0,"reviews_count":0,"instagram_followers":null,"verified":true,"expert":false}},"618":{"id":618,"title":"Greg","description":"\"Through our works we have launched many projects which are helping local community get access to education, health care, and sustainable income that honors their traditional way of life.\"","body":[{"type":"text","content":{"body":"

Why did you decide to start leading experiential travel tours?

After 1994 genocide atrocities, I had no job and I had to figure out how I to live and sustain my family. I started working as a local guide taking tourists around Musanze town and they visited local peoples at their homesteads and showcased our cultural aspects like making the local banana beer, basket weaving, and pottery. I met many international overlanders who brought tourists to visit the mountain gorillas and I started my own tours company which I still run.

What do you hope to gain from showing people your environment and culture?

I will gain by seeing that the locals are now proud of conserving the environment since they do gain economically by featuring various cultural activities to tourists who pay a substantial amount to them. They earn a living by doing so. I will be linking tourism and conservation for community development around the volcanoes national park.

What are you most excited to share with tourists?

My company is all about community, wildlife, tourism and travel. We promote sustainable tourism through community and conservation programs. Our cultural tourism scheme involves developing our community and promoting our nature preserve through tourism. We bring under-served communities into the tourism supply chain and support community development projects that help people help themselves through our initiatives (http://redrocksinitiative.org/). Through our works we have launched many projects which are helping local community get access to education, health care, and sustainable income that honors their traditional way of life. We provide a sustained, reliable source of funding for the local organization through the tourism industry. We created a respectful environment where the local community feels comfortable with tourists and work to position conservation as a competitive land use that delivers benefits to local communities, creates jobs, stimulates local micro-enterprise development, promotes local procurement, develops skills and knowledge and ultimately improves livelihoods within the Volcanoes National Park.

What fears do you have about making your land and lifestyle more public?

I have no fears so long as whatever I will say is the truth.

What specifically about your culture/history/environment would be beneficial for a traveler to learn about before taking their trip?

We have different packages. All are designed to conserve the environment with an aim to strengthen the community, protect cultural traditions, and advance sustainable community livelihood to reduce the poaching of endangered wildlife by providing them with an alternative income in the follows areas:

Protection and Preservation of endangered tree spices in Kagano Botanic Garden for tradition herbs and medical plants which communities used to poach in Volcano National Park, that is in process of being upgraded to be a research center.

Conservation and Protection of land degradation and soil erosion by tree planting in community gardens using Red Rocks initiative of banana bags (Igihoho Seed Bags) made in banana backs which are biodegradable and can often be decomposed and are suitable for soil conservation, instead of petroleum-based plastic containers.

Reducing the poaching of endangered wildlife by supporting communities in different developmental projects to improve and elevate the day-to-day livelihood for the communities neighboring the Volcanoes National Park.

Partnering with local authority / government in supporting and preserving Community cultural heritages/sights for travel and tourism attraction.

Protection and supporting less-advantaged communities in Kagano community village in Particular Indigenous people who used to depend on hunting in the national park forests.

Supporting and constructions of shelters for poor vulnerable families adjacent to volcanoes National Park.

Vocational Skills training in traditional crafts like basket weaving, Art and crafts products, Hotel services-waiters and waitresses and tour guides to inevitably uplifted their living standards.

Livestock assistance to vulnerable poor communities due to land scarcity like Goats, Pigs, Rabbits and Poultry project to uplift those poor communities livelihoods.

Supporting and creation of vegetable gardens for a community farming project for malnutrition eradication to singles and teenager mothers who gave birth at immaturity age.

The setting and supporting tourist “Community Walk” and experiences banana beer making and enjoy banana beer cocktail, watching of local music performances from local artists, storytelling and poetry.

Organizing and conducting annual Cultural Harvest Season “Umuganura” commonly known as national Umuganura festival as preservation of Rwandan culture and heritage, with a goal of increasing public awareness of Rwanda’s cultural heritage;

We plan to sets out joint objectives of environmental sustainability and community development. However, there is far more work to be done in creating links between Red Rock’s activities and the environment. Establishing an educational program to teach the local community the importance of protecting the environment is a key future goal. Part of the reason that clear environmental links are lacking at Red Rocks is the difficulty in creating pro-environmental activities that also create profit. On the other hand, development projects such as diversifying the livelihoods of cooperatives have a clear economic link through the sale of handicrafts and activities.

"}}],"slug":"greg","cover":"dywjlbwnbg13zorfpfyz","location_label":"Rwanda","place_id":"ChIJ40A451SWwhkRA6HMyyawkHQ","country":"RW","created_at":"2020-08-10T16:30:03.905Z","updated_at":"2020-08-10T16:53:42.121Z","published_at":"2020-08-10T16:53:42.088Z","user":{"id":1166,"firstname":"Annie","lastname":"Yanofsky","name":"Annie Yanofsky","username":"annie.yanofsky","bio":null,"photo":"mipj3ke6veex0f4nqbhv","website":"","twitter_username":"","instagram_username":"","role":"traveler","supplier_motivations":["protecting_culture"],"supplier_types":["storyteller"],"supplier_roles":["trip_leader"],"supplier_countries":[],"supplier_regions":null,"supplier_company":null,"supplier_lodging":null,"supplier_transport":null,"supplier_guiding":null,"facebook_url":null,"tripadvisor_url":null,"linkedin_url":null,"whatsapp_preference":null,"rating":0,"reviews_count":0,"instagram_followers":null,"verified":true,"expert":false}}},"keys":[9,56,59,277,618,617,53,17,14,10,8,7]},"reviews":{"data":{},"keys":[]},"topics":{"data":{},"keys":[]}},"views":{"auth":{"_store":{},"users":[],"journeys":[],"conversations":[],"messages":[],"bookings":[],"stories":[],"reviews":[],"topics":[]},"destination-africa":{"_store":{"isLoading":false},"users":[3,511,1167,643,340,227,354,148,594,106,626,913,1288,649,204,601,1153,1622,605,229,1659,804,240,595,393,442],"journeys":[1125],"conversations":[],"messages":[],"bookings":[],"stories":[9,56,59,277,618,617,53,17,14,10,8,7],"reviews":[],"topics":[]}}}

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